“This song is about that great sin. No, its not about drugs or infidelity. Its about letting life pass you by.” – Ann Wilson on the song Fool No More.
At Chicago customs, the US officer asks me if i was with the other Calgarians headed for Nashville and i said no. He then tells the other officer “a lot of people from Alberta heading to Nashville and they are not even with each other”.
The motley crew of Albertans has turned the Nashville bound plane to perhaps the noisiest flight ive been coz of the getting-to-know-you chats and Albertans acting like Kiwis or worse. Im glad the pudgy american steward did not lose his cool despite the juvenile taunts.
At the Nashville airport, I took the public bus (the only passenger to do so) and got a nasty introduction to racial segregation. The bus came and left 10 minutes before the schedule (no respect for time). All the riders were black! The white driver did not accept my $2 fare and he headed straight to the scary central bus station that is full of vagrants and not bothering passing through the bus stops. After stopping at the station, he rudely motions everyone to get out. Shocking.
The fringes of downtown Nashville are scary with lots of black hobos so i headed to broadway avenue. I tried to enter Mcdonald’s only to know that it is not 24 hours as advertised and there is a sign everywhere saying anyone with a hiker’s backpack is not allowed inside. Shocking.
Soon enough my misconceptions about Nashville were disproved:
1. That Honky-tonk central is wide and sprawling.
It is actually compact, with iconic bars attached side-by-side each other and the additional spaces added are going vertical.
2. That Honky-tonk central is beside open farm-like spaces.
It is actually in a modern cosmopolitan urban jungle of high rise buildings and paved concrete roads that reminds me of Chicago, Portland and Vancouver. No farm-like scenery within a 10 mile radius from downtown.
I loitered around Broadway St from midnight to 4am. Bars are bustling till 3AM. I went to a 24 hour diner and ordered a burrito only to find out it is 3 times the size i imagined.
Downtown Nashville is one big bachelorette party with lots of lumba-lumbas letting loose. Their behavior is downright disgusting and i didnt make any attempt to get inside a live country music bar after watching them. But apparently the door ushers are focusing on them. I hope the fat bozos drain the $ out of those b1tche$.
But im glad that tourists are glued to Honky-tonk central. Those b1tche$ can take downtown. I will have midtown with its collegiate atmosphere and Southern fare. My diet went out the window as i gorged on Nashville’s original hot chicken. The chicken liver bam bam became a favorite and i also tried the jim beam lacquered chicken lollipops. And i could barely walk after taking a cup of the boozy peach traditional smoothie. I have not tried the many other original dishes of the two restos i went to – Hattie Bs and Party Fowl. I missed trying the fried green tomatoes at Arnolds as they just closed when i arrived.
The weather in Nashville is very hot and so are the other “attractions” in midtown.
If one wants to experience a real country feel, one should go to places like Jackson, Wyoming. Nashville is a typical American urban center but with some “country” glitter.